Well, there isn’t much to say about the loop except that we finally had a close encounter with a moose. And what a fine specimen he was – a young bull with furry antlers, just feeding on the roadside. He looked up at us just as we drove by. I wish I had a photo to show you, but we couldn’t stop that easily on the roadside. It was a foggy day for the most part, so I can’t tell you much about this part of the province. There was probably a great view and there may have been caribou looking at us, but I couldn’t see a thing. We did stop at Ferryland to see an early settlement of Lord Baltimore (of Baltimore, Maryland fame) and bought a great loaf of traditional bread. Dinner consisted of pan fried cod with rice and bread. Now I am cautiously calling it cod because it was frozen and it didn’t look or taste like cod to me, even though the lady at the fish market said it was. They might be cod lions mind (cod loins?) or cod tails or maybe they’ve been frozen for so long they don’t taste like fish at all. She also sold me some ginger wine, which is ginger essence that you are supposed to mix with water and sugar to make a ginger beverage. I am about to try it with hot water to see what it’s like.
Finding a campground was a bit of a chore. I had picked out the Irish Loop RV Park, which we missed and drove past. By the time we arrived, there were no serviced sites, so I paid for an unserviced one. We hoped to use the interior pool and have a nice hot shower. But we were told the pool was not open much of the time and the showers and toilet were at the recreation area, far from our campsite. When we drove up to see our site, we were disappointed and realized the whole campground was booked by seasonal campers. No wonder they didn’t care about the odd camper coming by. In the end, I actually asked for a refund and we moved to another site at the Wilds, a golf course/resort. It was simple in design and showed potential for a year round resort with a great mountain view. We slept well enough and enjoyed a hot shower in the main resort, but I wouldn’t book it for a major event mind you.
From there we were off to the ferry terminal to catch our ride back to Nova Scotia. The ferry is quite spacious, and although we didn’t get a cabin, we have enjoyed a great picnic dinner, a few beers, some live music and soon, a comfy airplane-style seat for the night (it turned out the seats were not that comfy; Leon slept on the floor and I tried to sleep in spite of the loud snoring in the room).
We’ve had time to reflect on our almost 3 weeks in Newfoundland and can’t think of how we could have improved our stay. The people were warm, the fish and seafood were yummy, the landscape and coves are gorgeous, the weather was mostly fine and here’s a list of all the critters we saw: 3 moose, seals, a number of whales, puffins, gannets, bald eagles, ospreys, grey jays and other more common birds, rabbits (large ones in Labrador), a mouse that ran across the highway, 4 dogs that randomly crossed the highway on the Irish Loop, icebergs (if you can call them critters) and a frozen cod that we both kissed.
Bye bye Newfoundland! She’s gone b’y, she’s gone…